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Green Thumb Lawn Experts I Need Your Help


The Gun Of Bavaria

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I have a problem. Actually I have many problems as you all know, but for now let's talk about my back lawn. This is the first summer in 6 years we haven't had a dog using it as a dumping ground and it has nearly been a year since the blades of grass were touched by dookie. Additionally I have a fricken 100 year old tree in the back yard that while beautiful, cover's half my lawn and limits the amount of light.

I have 2 areas in particular, back of my house and next to the garage, both covered by the tree canopy when leaves appear, that are mud pits. I've tried planting grass seed before and it has worked, but I almost always lose it by mid summer.

I'm looking for advice on how to get ANY type of grass minus weeds to grow back there and complete the lawn. In other words, what is the roughest, toughest grass seed i.e. type out there what will grow and eventually replace what becomes mud with a lawn.

Any ideas would be appreciated.

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Go to home depot or lowes and get the "shade mix" grass seed and scott's starter fertilizer with crab grass preventer. I don't know what type of seeds they are but I've used it and it works pretty well. Half my property is lined with pine trees and it worked pretty good. Make sure you don't just throw it down, try to rake the dirt a little to loosen it up and cover it with eiter top soil or straw. I had a huge problem with annual blue grass last year and ended up tilling 1/3 of my lawn. This year it looks awesome. Although the sprinkler and scotts products help a ton.

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Go to home depot or lowes and get the "shade mix" grass seed and scott's starter fertilizer with crab grass preventer. I don't know what type of seeds they are but I've used it and it works pretty well. Half my property is lined with pine trees and it worked pretty good. Make sure you don't just throw it down, try to rake the dirt a little to loosen it up and cover it with eiter top soil or straw. I had a huge problem with annual blue grass last year and ended up tilling 1/3 of my lawn. This year it looks awesome. Although the sprinkler and scotts products help a ton.

All grassy plants like lots of sun-light.

Given the basics of soil-sun-water,...All lawn grasses are easy to grow.

Give them a little extra water and some fertilizer, and they are very easy to grow.

If you are having problems getting grasses to grow, then chances are you need to examine if or not you have the proper basics to begin with. None of the common lawn grasses will grow in deep shade.

The most shade-tolerant grass-type there is would be something like 'Rembrandt' or 'Plantation' TALL FESCUE. You might try this grass-type and see how it does. It will not do well in the summer heat, and you may have to re-seed it every fall to keep up a dense stand. Most garden centers and seed stores will sell cultivars of Tall Fescue.

You might consider ways to make your lot sunnier by trimming or removing some trees and shade-sources. More sun-light will help the grass and any moss problem.

If you continue to have trouble growing lawn grasses, you may have to give up and work instead to establish alternative landscaping scenarios and ground-covers.

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Go to home depot or lowes and get the "shade mix" grass seed and scott's starter fertilizer with crab grass preventer.

The shade mix is okay, but whatever you do, do NOT use crabgrass preventer while seeding. It will kill the seeds before they begin to root.

The best thing to use is a high iron starter fertilizer for the first 3 - 4 months while seeding. (Don't forget to use lots of lime and peat moss during this process too) After the lawn is established, then you can put the crabgrass preventer down.

I agree with SJ that tall fescue is the best way to go.

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tall fescue is a crappy looking grass

i tried many times to grow grass and ive come to the conclusion that either i suck or its very hard to do.

i dont know how big of an area, but i had a guy installa pallet of grass. it looks great and at 600 bucks, its not THAT much money and it sure is the easy way.

if you have a huge yard, forget it

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The shade mix is okay, but whatever you do, do NOT use crabgrass preventer while seeding. It will kill the seeds before they begin to root.

The best thing to use is a high iron starter fertilizer for the first 3 - 4 months while seeding. (Don't forget to use lots of lime and peat moss during this process too) After the lawn is established, then you can put the crabgrass preventer down.

I agree with SJ that tall fescue is the best way to go.

The starter fertilizer that I use by Scott's has a crab grass preventer in it (white granuals). It is perfectly safe to use. It IS NOT, however, the first stage of the Scott's lawn treatment program which is just a crab grass preventer treatment (orange granuals) which is put down in early spring. Be careful not to confuse the two of them.

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In other words, what is the roughest, toughest grass seed i.e. type out there what will grow and eventually replace what becomes mud with a lawn.

St. Augustine grass is the toughest I have ever seen. You can trample the hell out of it, and with just a little bit of water, it's back good as new.

Any bare spots tend to fill in as the turf expands.

Unfortunately, St. Augustine will never grow up north.:eek:

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St. Augustine grass is the toughest I have ever seen. You can trample the hell out of it, and with just a little bit of water, it's back good as new.

Any bare spots tend to fill in as the turf expands.

Unfortunately, St. Augustine will never grow up north.:eek:

Up North is a shore town. Gets even harder. If I dig 10 inches I hit sand. Grass does not like sand.

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If none of this advice works, just hire some Mexican illegals. They work in my yard once a week and my grass has never looked better. Actually I'm not sure if they are illegal or not, but those two words just seem to blend together so easily.

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St. Augustine grass is the toughest I have ever seen. You can trample the hell out of it, and with just a little bit of water, it's back good as new.

Any bare spots tend to fill in as the turf expands.

Unfortunately, St. Augustine will never grow up north.:eek:

douchey, why even mention st augustine if the guy lives in canada>?

guns, tall fescue is durable, maybe the most durable. its popular on sports fields/parks. another option which i love, but may not work by you are zoysia plugs. this grass is a weed. it is the thickest most beautiful grass going. weeds cant grow because it chokes them out. you can plant plugs every 6-12 inches in a grid and it will take 2-3 years until it is full. it doesnt care about water or fertalizer, nothing

the down side? every winter it turns brown. as soon as it warms up, it gets green. again, maybe in your neck of the woods it might not work???

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douchey, why even mention st augustine if the guy lives in canada>?

Are you that friggn' stupid DK?

Don't you know me better than that by now?

I was giving GOB the perfect solution and all the while knowing it would never work in Michigan.

Ya know, kinda busting his balls.

And here I thought you had a 160 IQ.:eek:

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Are you that friggn' stupid DK?

Don't you know me better than that by now?

I was giving GOB the perfect solution and all the while knowing it would never work in Michigan.

Ya know, kinda busting his balls.

And here I thought you had a 160 IQ.:eek:

sorry i faltered.

heyyyyy what the hell is vcash?

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I have a problem. Actually I have many problems as you all know, but for now let's talk about my back lawn. This is the first summer in 6 years we haven't had a dog using it as a dumping ground and it has nearly been a year since the blades of grass were touched by dookie. Additionally I have a fricken 100 year old tree in the back yard that while beautiful, cover's half my lawn and limits the amount of light.

I have 2 areas in particular, back of my house and next to the garage, both covered by the tree canopy when leaves appear, that are mud pits. I've tried planting grass seed before and it has worked, but I almost always lose it by mid summer.

I'm looking for advice on how to get ANY type of grass minus weeds to grow back there and complete the lawn. In other words, what is the roughest, toughest grass seed i.e. type out there what will grow and eventually replace what becomes mud with a lawn.

Any ideas would be appreciated.

Top Ideas for GOB's grass

One word, astro-turf

Lay cement it and paint it green

Just build a damn pool and go for a dip

Read Steinbeck - dust bowls can be hip (if you don't get the reference, don't worry, it won't be the 1st time I've felt like the Dennis Miller of JN)

Hey, since when are Detroit cops allowed to grow grass in their backyard?

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If none of this advice works, just hire some Mexican illegals. They work in my yard once a week and my grass has never looked better. Actually I'm not sure if they are illegal or not, but those two words just seem to blend together so easily.

and his wife has learned some new 'South of the Border' tricks

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The starter fertilizer that I use by Scott's has a crab grass preventer in it (white granuals). It is perfectly safe to use. It IS NOT, however, the first stage of the Scott's lawn treatment program which is just a crab grass preventer treatment (orange granuals) which is put down in early spring. Be careful not to confuse the two of them.

Ah, I thought you were talking about the orange fertilizer with Halt. My apologies. :cheers:

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No big, I just wanted to clarify. They make starter fertlizers with and without it, but I use the one with the crabgrass preventer basically because both my neighbors suck and don't give a sh!t about their lawns. I'm battling both sides, but I'm winning! I just make sure I dropped extra "Scott's 1st stage" crab grass preventer on their side so I burn the sh!t out of their "non" lawn. Makes a nice buffer zone.

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